Smashing Beauty!

The only sport that can alter my heart beat is . . . tennis! I've always like it (I think my dad likes tennis too. I've a sister named Steffi) And I always keep myself updated with WTA Tours :)

I can feel the resentment, grief, anger, anxiety and the joy that my guy friends feel (which I don't) when they watch football match. I am sad when my seeds lose, but extremely happy when they win. Tennis really does have some dramas.

One reason I love it is the girls, especially Ana Ivanovic and Maria Sharapova. And as serious as their deadly backhand smash, they're seriously fashionable.

As Australian Open 2008 is occupying the third and fourth weeks of January, I notice that most of the them wear accessories. Sharapova, Jankovic and Kuznetsova have their Orthodox crucifixes; Sharapova and Williams sisters wear oversized earrings; and only Henin wears watch.

Russian Sharapova (maria-sharapova.org)

Clothes are also big issues. While most players sport two pieces, Sharapova wears dresslike piece, Hantuchova wears her own design, and ever smiling Ivanovic wears the most chic, voluminous dress. Pretty!


What's going in my mind: how these sporty girls wears accessories while they focus on the game. Think of dangling and heavy earring burdening your ears and pendants slapping your neck. I think it's a bit painful. But the accessories do enhance their appearance.

Most girls today don't wear glasses. the last sights were Billy Jean King's old photo and Martina Navratilova in the early 90's.

But when thinking about this, I am surprised to see one male player wears glasses. He is Janko Tipsarevic. This heavily accessorized Serb not only wears glasses, but necklace and some piercings in eyebrow and ears. Combined with tattoes, I can say he's Beckham of tennis.

photos: Gettyimages

And I'm gonna come home for now to watch these smashing young men--and women! :)

Xem

Oh Vladi, Oh Vlada

Vlada Roslyakova (nee Elena Roslyakova) has been catwalking since 2005. This Russian native's first break was in Teen Vogue mid 2005, posing as an American farm girl.

I like her eyes and the way she dramatizes her look in ads (by looking up and be cheerful, especially in Hermes ad).

Sonia Rykiel

And they way she walk is very distinctive, she leans back and eyes up. By doing so, she looks taller in photos. I hope she'll be around for long time.

Sem (photos: Style.com)

Batik for Beginner (Me)

"Every nation has its traditional way to make motifs with candles. But Indonesia's is more complicated. Whereas others tend to paint or desk jet, we still do candle-draw," said a man, who later confessed that he's a traditional textile enthusiast.

_________________

I went to Museum Tekstil, Jakarta, to learn how to batik with Erika & Sinta. We were given a piece of cloth, handkerchief size. First, draw or copy a motif. Sinta chose floral, Erika parang (diagonal), me mega mendung (heavy clouds). Since we arrived late (on Saturdays, it opens 09.00-13.00), I hurried myself to get the entire process (i did want to return the day after). I must candle its two sides!

So I managed to finish first, with many an uneven and scratchy line, tee hee. My, it needs the patience of a farmer hahaha. Oh, I dropped two drops of candle! The man beside me smiled wryly. His was 1 x 0.5 m long multicolored piece of batik. He's been doing this for 4 months!

Then, I asked cobalt blue paint in order to have some Chinese look.

"First, soak it in this 'dye catcher' solution. Can you hold it please?" asked a mas mas.

Then he went inside the rumah panggung, returning with a jar of paint. "One gram of it costs Rp 25,000, you know. The govt subsidizes."

Ah, well. For the love of country! :)

When it finished, the result surprised us. Sinta's flowers occupied the whole fabric, Cika's was a product of minimalism, and mine. Mine? See one of the fabled birds lays egg in flight?! :)

_____________________________

Learning to batik really made me give layers of respect to those who preserve our cultural heritage: batik tulis (candle-drawn cloth), which is unique to Indonesia. Making batik tulis requires concentration, high skill and talents. That is why it is precious and of high price.

For shopping guide, please click here.

Sem

Spring Is in the Air

Sex & Nuptials of Plants (Carolus Linnaeus 300th anniversary, photo by Sem)

As Vivaldi's Spring kicks in, flowers bloom here and there at one of my fave designers Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquiere SS 08 show. Fresh from startling everyone with jodhpurs, collegiate look, scarves and keffiyeh last seasons, Ghesquiere continues to give jaw dropping pieces.

All the girls parade in bold floral arrangements, ranging from lifelike prints to strokes of colors. the pallette is refreshing indeed. Again he shows how to make stiff fabrics look nice. and again he creates striking shoes. they're like gladiator meets shin-protecting shoes of American football player.



I can't not help not commenting the shoulders and the seams. you see, some of the cuts are assembled just like basic patterns. but some are assembled with a new technique that seems simple yet requires careful structuring. beautifully architectural!

Seemingly aware of more options, Ghesquiere offers some jewel tones that reminds me of Prada shirts that went along with turbans (SS 07) like this one. (the shirt looks like that of Miu Miu SS 07):



The tops will match skinny jeans or some pencil skirt. If you want to clash it with other prints, that would be nice as seen in Dries van Noten's SS 08 collections.

Xem (photos: style.com)

I am a canvas bag!

Ubud based Dana S makes good use of leftovers. I like his bags. By sewing his discarded canvas and cleaning brushes on it, the self confessed "more well known outside Indonesia especially in Germany" painter creates beautiful bags. They look nice and kitschy.







He considers most surface paintable and loves textured end results. He also made his car beautiful "mobile gallery" by painting (not paint-brushing) its surface with specially formulated heat resistant paints.

Xem

Luella Bartley

A sign in Luella Bartley's office reads:

"Work hard & be nice to people"



Xem

Cummerbund!

Violinist Sedov and pianist Unitsky (by Sem)

This is worn by violinist Pavel Sedov for his concert at GKJ, Jakarta, last month. The russian musician wore black shirt and pants, shiny patent leather shoes, and black cummerbund. At first, I frowned. Never seen a piece of cloth like that before. I'd only ever heard about that.

On the stage, he stood, turned his head, pressed his chin on the instrument and stroke the strings with the bow. As he played, he'd close his eyes, fiddling away while Vitaly Unitsky, his fellow pianist, dutifully read the partita. They played Rimsky-Korsakov, Tchaikovsky, Bach and many other. (Going to classical music concerts, I swear, is much better than playing the disc.)

As for the cummerbund, it looked nice on him, erecting his posture as he swayed with the movement of the bow.

Had he not wore it, perhaps his black shirt would "toppled out" (my words for ketarik-tarik dan berantakan) and ruin their performance.

I'm sure it'd look nicer with single buttoned suit or tuxedo.

Xem

Dance: That Thing They Do (on Runway)

She walks in beauty, so the song goes. But what if she dances in beauty--on the runway?


Watching girls pose at the end of runway is always exciting. It involves choreography and model's own style, I guess. And it shows the ability of models to, say, represent clothes they are wearing.

But Naomi Campbell is ever stingy. As she reaches runway's end, she'll instantly routes back. In one point thirty seconds, perhaps. Izabel Jahja is flirty, raising one elbow, smiling "one-sidedly", then turning back. Isabeli Fontana ever put one leg forward then did some zig-zagging and Jessica Stam mellows out her visage to match fragile-flowing looking coat she was wearing at Blumarine A/W 2007-08. And debutants tend to pose a lot, giving their best smile and pose for about 3 to 5 seconds before turning their backs on the photographers.

All seemed a bit "passe" when Coco Rocha danced at Jean Paul Gaultier's A/W 2006-2007 show. Wearing tartan, she tap danced ala Highlander. I watched the show (on TV) with much awe. Dancing sure gave the clothes she was wearing some nice, bouncy look.



(by Elle.de)

And I think Rocha has all reasons in the world to dance. Firstly because she's a pro dancer, secondly because she was asked to (let's assume so).

Ex ballerina Selma Abidin also drew ovation at Anne Avantie's 2007 show recently, doing some pivotal movements to show off the balloony shape of the batik full skirt.

And Rocha did it again at New York Fashion Week 2007.

Dancing brings some refreshing sight for fashion shows. It also does some good for the career of models who dance due to the high turnover in modeling. We love models who give more, don't we?

Other notable ballerinas turned models are Irina Lazareanu, and newcomers Suzanne Diaz and Karlie Kloss.

Xem

Raquel Zimmermann

Brazilian Raquel Zimmermann (24 or 27) now enjoys high profile recognition. Flying under radar for six years or so perhaps can induce much boredom for any models desiring to be the next big thing. But the towering beauty prevails. When she's got LV ad about two years ago, people started to ask, 'who's that girl?'. Now she's a frequent.

She often sports cold and poised look. Lucky her, unlike Gemma W to Sasha P, Linda E to Milla J, Gisele B to Eugenia V, she's twins to none. But I'm sure you'd liken her pouty smile to Christy Turlington's.

This fall she graces Fendi and CK ads.

Sopranos: Best Dressed Songbirds

Sopranos are arguably the best dress songbirds in the world. I ain't talking about Charlotte Church here. Or Maria Callas. Or Motserratt. Or Jessye Norman. Or cabaret clad Sarah Brightman.

I'm welcoming Sasha Lazard, Filippa Giordano, Katherine Jenkins, Hayley Westenra, and many other young sopranos. Here in Indonesia, we have Aning Katamsi (wears veil and loves corsage), Binu Sukaman, Rosanna Unsulangi, and sweet seventeen Bernadeta. More and more are expected. And they are fashionable.

Danielle Steele's favorite Lazard (sashalazard.com)

Katherine

Ever pleasing the audiences with their lulling vocals and professional appearance as well: dress, low cut neckline, sleek hair, graceful makeup, expensive looking jewelries. They take music and fashion seriously. Real divas.

Xem

Delia von Rueti

Beyond Design

A pale yellow handbag made of ostrich skin with ostrich foot as ornamentation undeniably is a shock. But the more you see it, the more you'd like it. That's what I felt when I saw Delia von Rueti's handbag at Alun-Alun Grand Indonesia. Her handbag and jewelry collections use exotic materials like corals, reptile skins, sheep skin. All shows bold and excellent craftmanship.

Delia von Rueti is a regular in jewelries shows abroad. It is of no surprise that she opens her flagships in Zurich, Geneva, New York, La Jolla and Milan. Her high profile clients include Indonesian and Brit bluebloods, and al Fayeds.

I had an opportunity to talk with the Bali-based designer via email:

Your design is unique and you seem prefer exotic materials.
"I am here to fantasize and make one of a kind jewelry... and want to stay that way. in a way, am not really a designer. I'm an artist. I create my own pieces with my very own fingers and I value and devote myself to those pieces. That's what's making it special to my customers. I just dont sketch around and give it to the tukang (craftsmen) and they make them.

"All the materials I use are imported from Africa, processed two to three months to make them smooth and durable, and don't feel like rubbers. The message here, I dont want to use local croc skin coz there is no guarantee and a government guide line of how the skin was produced. Maybe crocodiles were killed in the wild which is very very sad."

I can't resist not to comment your handbags. They're unusual yet pretty.
"I design those bags. Just simply I love them the way: big, durable and different or small, eye catching and made of good materials from Bali and lots lots of love. well, it's so me.. I create them, and I design them. It's so me. I'm a rebel in good way."

With these out of ordinary designs, who are your customers?
"Mostly people that already have everything in life, who consider my jewelry and the workmanship as art and dare to be different in a humble way."

You manage Yayasan Mutumanikam Nusantara. Tell us about it.
"It was established last year and was founded by Ibu SBY, the first lady. We help local craftsmen to get exposure overseas. We educate and train about 110 craftsmen to break in the
international market without just enriching the designers themselves or a brand which will never change the way our tukangs live.

"I want my pengerajin to be able to take orders of those everyday jewelries and export them and hope it'd be able to change their life and show them we can compete with the big brands.
I do much as I can to change the way my tukangs my sales people and all the people that work with me live and give them a kick back in percentage on the pieces we sold.

Also, I want to do something more meaningful to my community. As of now, I send about 420 kids to school in Sumatra. These children are blessed with warm personalities and education will polish their qualities. I hope a handful of them will make a difference."

___________________________________________________

Visit her stores in Bali (Amanusa Resort Nusa Dua, Amandari Resort Ubud, Amankila Candidasda, Ritz-Carlton Jimbaran, Dava Boutique Villa Jimbaran), Alun-alun Grand Indonesia Jakarta, and online at www.deliavonrueti.com

Batik Mood

Batik mood mode on

The batik legend Iwan Tirta ever said, "Long before Mooryati Soedibyo (she's the godmother of local beauty pageant) campaigned inner beauty, batik has represented our inner and outer beauty as well."

He explained that true batik is batik tulis (drawn batik), one that is candled on both sides. (batik making requires hot candle to make the motifs). So if we hold a piece of batik tulis, both sides show the same motifs, same color, and same feel. "That's true inner and outer beauty," he emphasized.

Like love (eh, what?), batik has many faces: batik cap (patterned batik), batik cetak (printed batik) and batik tulis (drawn batik). Batik cap is produced by dipping brass mold in hot candles and then stamping it to the fabric (thus, the candle forms motifs). Batik cetak is the cheapest because it involves no candling process. And the premium is batik tulis, which take most time beacuse the fabric is candled both sides.

Almost every nation has this technique of using hot candle in dyeing fabrics but only Indonesia has batik tulis.


mega mendung (heavy clouds) motifs, drawn by Iwan Tirta


Coincidentally, when visiting Ragunan Zoo recently, I noticed that even nature "draws" its own batik:


white quail in "natural batik" (by Sem)

Intermezzo. All right. For those who seek youthful looking batiks can visit Cita by Bin House, Carmanita, or Edward Hutabarat.

Xem

Tea Time Gets Flowery

These colorful daisies are cute and reportedly edible. They're cakes! With these accompanying your tea time, every sip will taste better, I guess. Created by Murakami, the Japanese artist who was responsible for the creation of cherried LV accessories.

So cute I want to print them on my wall :)


(photo by NYTimes)

Sure you can order cakes with solorful sugar icings but all I'm thinking about now is kue ku, a '3 D' rabbitlike cake filled with mung bean paste and wrapped in red maize dough and then stamped. It is the only fashionable traditional cake we have here. Haha.

* Samovar

Shirt Dress (back to 1948)

Taken at Alun-alun Grand Indonesia this August 17, 2007, the photo was staged in conjunction with Indonesia's 62nd anniversary of independence. To me, the photo also
testifies rebirth of . . . shirt dress!

Shirt dress (worn by the girl at right) makes its comeback early this year. It is simple and a bit unflattering but turns sophisticated once you put your belt on it.

Marching: Indonesia Socialist Democratic Students (PSDI), circa mid 1948

Let's take a closer look at the photo. See the sandals, the belt, the socks (socks are ubiquitous this fall), and their simple cut hair. Don't forget to notice the way the girl at left fancied her hat.

See how well dressed we--Indonesians--have been! :)

Xem

Art is seduction

ART IS SEDUCTION, NOT RAPE
Susan Sontag

(so is fashion. amen to that)


Xem

faux rattan

Rattan makes fashionable and durable furniture. Yet its price regulatory often worries even the most religious craftsmen (pengrajin, I mean). Now they can let rattan can climb the trees in the jungle as high and long as it wants (FYI, rattan is a member of palm family, Palmaceae).

Thanks to today's tech, rattan is synthesized by melting various kinds of plastic fibers and its appearance is nice and no less fashionable. Just see the sink (?) below.
Xem

Ba-len-ci-a-ga!

Nicolas Ghesquiere returns to Planet Earth. After voyaging the other galaxy in his S/S 2007 collection, Ghesquiere delivers his most "wearable" collection so far: khaki, suit, furs, and some ethnic-inspired scarves.


(photo: Elle.com)


What's better than making ladies act gentlemanly? :)

Xem

go nude or covered up!

LV

Burberry

Boyish look has never been this chic. These are seasons to flaunt your legs or go back to girl scout days:

I mean, as oxfords and lace up boot shoes and ankle boots are in, you have two choices.
It is best to try both choices (not at the same time, of course).

Xem

(photos: Elle.com)

Extemporisation! (Giorgio Armani Prive Haute Couture Fall 2007)

the fashionable violinist (official photo)

It is necessary to remember that [classical music] was written to entertain, and extemporisation was encouraged to increase the entertainment value
(The Original Four Seasons prologue, Vanessa-Mae)






The quote channels these two seasons: autumn and winter 2007-2008. I can see 'extemporisation" in some of haute couture powerhouses, especially Giorgio Armani Prive Autumn/Winter 2007-2008.

Long known for its classic apparel (he never departs from this), Armani softens some of its "stiff" collections (almost every gown's upper part is hungging but when it comes to skirt, it is flowy and voluminous).

I can't not comment his bags collection. They are ever present and nice as well, though formal. Overall nothing theatrical yet pleasant.

(As for the violinist herself, several years ago she ever graced Hello mag pages wearing Giorgio Armani dresses)

Xem

Splashes of colors

Prada

LV
(fashion show pic: Elle.com)

Singer Regina Spektor wearing her own version (official photo)

It is the season of splashing colors or in my word, gradation. Just see the new ready to wear collections of Prada and Louis Vuitton (A/W 2007-2008).

I love it. Refreshing.

Try it for evening tea or for some confidence booster in the morning.

Xem

Afrodisiac

Female R& B singers tend to dress skimpily, and some even fetishlike. Especially those from US. When not singing, they're usually spotted at red carpets, overdressing in curvy gowns. It's boring.

But turn your head oceanwise. Meet Londonbased Ayo and Corinne Baily Rae. They are truly stylish and classy.

I know American style are different from that of London. But the point is more about taste and talent first attitude.

Ayo (official photo)

Xem

Marge Simpson vs Linda Evangelista

I'm never annoyed to see Mrs Simpson in her trunk dress and pearly necklace as her only accessory. Perhaps that's all she's got (or perhaps she's like Pak Raden who has 11 identical suits).

But I guess inside her heart, she--like all women in this world--desires to dress up and attract attentions from both sexes.

Well, I'm amazed to see her posing in the fashion spread of US Harper's Bazaar, August 2007--surprisingly with Jessica Simpson on the cover. (Sis, I must say that you were right, they're relatives, tee hee)

Marge graces the pages along with senior supermodel Linda Evangelista. (They seem to get along very well. Perhaps their status as moms binds them together). She even hangs out with Donnatella, JP Gaultier, Viktor und Rolf, to name a few. She brought her--uhm, extended--family for this to Paris. You can see Homer dragging LV trunks behind the beauties (Marge, Linda, and Bart's twin aunties).

Moms shouldn't leave their swan session, shouldn't they?

* Samovar

Person: Sasha Pivovarova

From Russia with . . . . style! [pardon me for this overused phrase :)]

Russia keeps producing high profile supermodels who have expensive looks. Think of Yevgenija (Eugenia) Volodina, Natasha Poly, Natalia Vodianova, Snejana Onopka, Vlada Roslyakova. Then came Sasha in late 2005.

She's all stunning, unique and captivating.

Although Sasha (22) is not a chameleon like her fellow Slavic model Milla Jovovich is, Sasha has her own signature look. I like her eyes and fierce expression.

At first I was confused: is it Gemma? Now one can easily point out the real McCoy. Whereas Gemma is a has been, Sasha seems comfortable with her few ads, most notably for Prada (eyewear, phone, perfume, apparel) and Armani cosmetic.

But I predict her two year old career will soon take flight. As of July 2007, she's been gracing numerous Vogue covers: China, Nippon, Italy, French, UK, and US. I like the Nippon version, where she is clad in Balenciaga A/W 2007-2008.

I read her profile in Teen Vogue July 2007 and found out that she likes art very much and was a student of the prestigious Moskva University.

I also learnt that she's recently married to her long time fiance. Too bad, eh? :)

* Samovar

Quote: Let us be elegant!

I reread Louisa May Alcott's Little Women last night. And one sentence tickled me:


"Oh dear me . .. let us be elegant or die!"


It was Meg and Jo dressing up for an evening party at the Moffats. Sounds patriotic, right? haha.

* Samovar
(photo by Noelkoran)

Long Live Plastics!

A knock off of Anya's (photo by Sem)

Three cheers for Ms. Hindmarch with her it bag "I Am not a Plastic Bag". It's a mixture of canvas and witty humor.

The English designer is previously known for her starts-from-US$1,000-bags. The hailed eco-friendly bag costs for about Rp 150,000 (pls check her store at Seibu, Jakarta). Unbelievably, the bags reportedly generated much hype, long queues, and some minor riots in Hong Kong. I think the hype has beaten down LV plastic shopping bag created by Mr Jacobs for S/S 2006.


I admire her boldness against plastics bags--a compound that may take as long as 5 oo years to degrade. Think of how plastics bags have ruined our once prosperous soil and bring injuries and deaths for sea creatures. It is indeed time to reduce its use.
You'd be surprised to know that Uganda, South Africa, Zanzibar, some US States, and France use law to make people reduce the plastic bags. Wow! Even Africa is steps ahead. Hopefully Indonesia will soon adopt (adapt) this law.


this humorous plastic version is Sophie Martin's

But wait a minute! I still admire the use of plastic bags, honestly. Should I put some fresh meat and fish into my canvas bag? No way.

So the chorus will always be: 'reduce, reuse, recycle' plastic bags.

Reptile Charmer

(Matthew Williamson faux croc, photo by Sem)



(photo by NYTimes)
I'm always fascinated with snakes, turtles, tortoises, and crocs. They are indeed terrible beauties. Ever graceful. Well, they're even more beautiful in eternity.

I mean, whenever I see them (the patterns, feel, appearance), I think of belt, wallet, bags, etc. Oh sooo luxurious!

PETA members and animal rights activists may disagree with me. But I have a reason to like these exotic skin.

First, I always make sure it is from farmed animals, not taken from hunted animals. Most labels and even traditional craftsmen (my word for pengrajin) make their crafts from farms. One plus point of it is they don't reduce the numbers available in the wild. Besides, most farms open themselves for public--for educational and recreational purpose. People don't want to comb along the river banks just to find them, and risk lives just to get close to them, right?

Of course we can find the stamped ones, which often cost less and still have glamorous look, like the black faux croc by Matthew Williamson.

Xem